The south-west coast: Oprna to Surbova

A boat morning in the bays you can't walk to

The coast between Punat and Stara Baška has five bays you can only reach by boat (Fox Bay, Bishop Bay, Golden Beach, Long Bay and Cornels Bay): white pebbles under tall yellow cliffs where griffon vultures nest. The skipper picks the two emptiest, stops next to the beach and ferries bags and small children ashore in a dinghy; there are caves, jumping rocks and underwater tunnels to swim to.

Where

Departs from the taxi-boat stand in Punat harbour; the bays lie along the coast towards Stara Baška.

When

Take the 09:00 departure: the large 40–45-seat group boats reach Golden Beach around midday. Departures at 09:00, 13:00, 15:00 and 17:00.

Time

3.5 h, of which about 40–45 min each way on the water

How

Taxi Boat Punat (Captain Bobo, 9 m wooden boat 'Ivex', max 16). Public trip EUR 29 adult, EUR 17 child under 12; private from EUR 220 per boat in high season, EUR 100–150 for 2 h off-season (2026). Book early; the boats are small. Cancelled with a refund in bad weather.

Tip: Staying in Stara Baška? A Punat boat needs about an hour to come round and collect you, so ask about a boat from Stara Baška harbour instead. Bring fins and water shoes; there is nothing ashore.

Stop for sage honey on the road home

Honey Hill is the family apiary of Jadranko Cvitanović, a beekeeper since 1989. Buy the sage honey from his Punat apiary, the one made on the island; he also sells honey brandy (medica), creamed honey and beeswax candles.

Where

The roadside stand on road 5125 between Punat and Stara Baška; the family shop is at Klančić 55, Punat.

When

From 10:00; call ahead outside summer.

Time

15 min

How

Pull in at the roadside stand, about 10 minutes' drive from Stara Baška. Phone +385 95 911 9956.

Tip: Ask which apiary each jar comes from: the acacia and chestnut honeys come from his mainland apiaries.

Oprna before ten

Swim in Oprna while it is still quiet: small pebbles, turquoise water and fish along the rocky sides. When it fills, move one cove east to Zaglav.

Where

Below road 5125, just before Stara Baška; Zaglav is the next cove east.

When

On the path by 08:30–09:30 in July and August, before the rental sets go and the bay fills; any time in May, June and September

Time

Half a morning; 10–15 min down, longer back up

How

Park on the verge of the Stara Baška road with all four wheels off the asphalt and never in a bend, then climb the guardrail and take one of the rocky paths down (the one further along is gentler but longer). Police ticket whole rows of cars: about EUR 60, or EUR 30 if paid within 3 days. From Stara Baška, a kayak or boat skips both the parking and the climb.

Tip: Bring your own umbrella and water: there is no natural shade, no toilet, and the bar is open only 11:00–21:00 and takes cash. Climb back in the evening shade; the path faces the afternoon sun.

Paddle the coast from Zala or Škrila

See the cliffs and coves from sea level: rent a kayak or SUP at the Zala beach bar, or at the water-sports centre on the Škrila beach, and paddle along the shore.

Where

Zala beach or the Škrila beach.

When

Morning tours 09:30 to about 14:00–15:00; sunset paddle 2.5–3 h in July–August; only on calm days

Time

2–5 h

How

Rental at the Zala beach bar or the Škrila water-sports centre in summer. Check the wind first, and stay close to shore.

Tip: On a calm morning, paddling from the village to Oprna avoids the road, the climb and the parking.

Zala: the cold spring, the jump rock and the little coves

A white-pebble cove over the headland from Stara Baška where a freshwater spring makes the water noticeably colder, and a few metres out the bottom turns to sand. A small bar, kayak and SUP hire, a jump rock on the left and a scramble to tiny coves on the right.

Where

Zala beach, over the headland from Stara Baška, with two pay car parks.

When

Before 10:30 or after 16:00 in July–August; any time in May–June and September

Time

2–3 h

How

About 20 min on foot from Stara Baška over the headland, or 3 min by car to the car parks: EUR 1/h from May to September at the lower one, EUR 1.40/h from June to September at the upper one; both were charging in September 2025.

Tip: Waves can build here more than you expect, so on a jugo day choose Škrila instead. Leave the car and walk: the access road is narrow.

Five minutes up to the St Jerome ruin

On a rise above Zala stands the shell of the medieval church of St Jerome, the church of the old settlement called Kraj (Stara Baška's earlier name). Conservation has kept its walls to roof height; it has an unusual north-south orientation with a semicircular apse to the north, and passing walkers still light candles inside. It looks out over the sea passage towards Rab, among dry-stone walls.

Where

On a rise about 100 m east of Zala beach, with a viewpoint just south of it.

When

Early morning or the hour before sunset, with a swim at Zala

Time

15–30 min

How

A footpath (no motor vehicles) from the Zala car park, about 290 m; 5 minutes from the beach. Stony: wear proper shoes.

Tip: Carry on along the path from the church to the quiet little cove beyond, or on to Surbova.

Walk on to Surbova for the last swim of the day

A wild gravel cove about 15–20 minutes' walk beyond Zala, among sheep pastures and dry-stone walls, with clear, fairly shallow water that is good for snorkelling. It is also known as 'Sunset beach'. Walk a little further for two smaller, quieter coves.

Where

Surbova cove, about 15–20 minutes' walk beyond Zala.

When

Late afternoon

Time

About 15–20 min on foot from the Zala car park; 2 h with the swim

How

On foot only: leave the car in the paid car park above Zala and walk on past St Jerome. No facilities: Zala's bar is the nearest.

Tip: Boats must not anchor in the bay: power cables run across it to the other islands. The next cove along has plenty of fish and starfish, and sea urchins too, so wear water shoes.

The coast at sunset, from the water

Two ways to see this west-facing coast in the last light from a boat: the Punat skipper's private 2-hour 'Sunset Wild Bays' run, or a trip from Stara Baška harbour itself. There the Mariana family business runs beach trips to Golden Beach and Plavnik, and further to Goli otok and Sveti Grgur, with pick-up and drop-off; it also runs big-game tuna fishing.

Where

From Punat harbour, or from Stara Baška harbour at Mariana.

When

Summer evenings

Time

2 h

How

Taxi Boat Punat: EUR 150 per boat for the 2 h sunset trip (2026 price list); short trips in season run after 19:00. Mariana's trips need at least 8 people (tuna fishing at least 5); prices on request, +385 91 571 1261.

Tip: For a group of eight or more, the Stara Baška departure saves the drive to Punat. Ask which boat and skipper when you book.

The Bauxite Story loop: Oprna the long way round

A marked 6.6 km coastal loop from Camp Škrila that tells the story of the First World War bauxite mines. It passes Oprna, the Mali and Veli Pečen coves with their strange cavities in the rock, the old shafts where more than 250 islanders (women and children too) once worked, and the small coves of Drenova, Pokriva and Lišičak. It climbs to the Velo Čelo viewpoint over the Kvarner, then comes back down to Oprna for a swim.

Where

Starts at Camp Škrila; the loop passes the Mali Pečen and Veli Pečen coves.

When

Spring and autumn; in summer only with a 07:00 start.

Time

6.6 km, 300 m climb, medium: allow about 3 h with a swim

How

KRK HIKE 146, marked. Steep coastal cliffs and a steep path through rock and scrub down to Oprna. Hiking shoes, plenty of water and sun protection.

Tip: Time it so you arrive at Oprna before the crowds: start at 07:00 and you swim there around 09:00. A harder alternative section is marked for experienced hikers.

The coastal trail to Bracol (fit walkers only)

A marked route from Stara Baška past St Jerome and Surbova along a string of coves to Bracol bay, with Prvić, Sveti Grgur and the Velebit ahead. At Bracol a small seasonal restaurant with a few moorings serves a short menu.

Where

Bracol bay, reached from Stara Baška past St Jerome and Surbova; the Surbova-Bracol path is 3.2 km.

When

March–May and October–November; in summer only at dawn; never in bura

Time

About 6 km each way; the full loop back over the ridge is 16.8 km with 985 m of climbing, about 7 h 40 with breaks

How

Start at the Zala car park or in the village. Harsh karst the whole way, narrow exposed sections along the cliffs, no shade anywhere. Water, sun protection and a windproof layer.

Tip: Walk out, eat at Bracol and arrange a boat back: there is an on-demand boat landing at Bracol. Check that the restaurant is open before relying on it; it is seasonal.

Parking and fines

No car park for Oprna or Zaglav: park on the prepared roadside of road 5125 with all four wheels off the asphalt and never in a bend; cars on the road have been ticketed. Zala: two small pay car parks (EUR 1/h and EUR 1.40/h in season; 2025).

Shade, water, toilets

No natural shade at Oprna, Zala, Surbova or on the trails; bring umbrellas and at least 2 litres each. Oprna has no toilets; Zala's bar has one. Nothing at the boat-only bays.

Wind

This coast is sheltered from the bura (north-east) but takes the swell when the jugo blows from the south-east. On jugo days swim at the camp beaches or cross to the Punat side; on bura days this is the calm side of the island.

Naturism

Parts of this coast are used by naturists: there is a marked naturist section at the east end of Oprna and another at Camp Škrila; naturism is customary at Drenova and several small coves, and tolerated at Surbova.

Boats and licences

Taxi Boat Punat: public wild-bays trips 5 June-20 September (EUR 29, children EUR 17) and private trips all year; taxi boats about EUR 50–80 per boat-hour, including the time to reach you (2026). Hire a boat only with a skipper or the licence it needs.